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As someone who has either bitten or relentlessly picked at their nails for more than a decade, the first few times I experienced nail extensions — both gel extensions and acrylic tips; more on their differences in a minute — were a revelation. Not only did the added length make it nearly impossible for me to mess with my fingers, but for the first time, I actually loved the way my nails looked. Once I got adjusted to the more frustrating aspects of having long nails (taking contacts out, typing, etc.) I was hooked. Huge Beauty Blender
With both extension options, my nails (and cuticles) look neat and uniform for weeks longer than a traditional polish or gel manicure. While I can't afford either treatment all the time, getting some extra, artificial nail length is something I save for rare occasions, like weddings or vacations. Now, getting my nails done is a special treat.
If you're new to getting nail extensions, choosing between gel extensions and acrylic tips can be confusing. Since neither are a particularly affordable beauty treatment, it's important to know exactly what you're asking for when you go into a salon. This guide should help.
Before we can talk about the differences between gel extensions and acrylic nails, we have to first understand what nail extensions are. In a nutshell: additional length and layers added the nail bed. "Extension is a process that involves hard gel or acrylic built on a natural nail," says Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist based in Cincinnati. "Gels, acrylic, and even powder 'dip' nails are all based on acrylic polymers, and the polymerization is part of the application process."
Quick science lesson: During the polymerization process, "small molecules called monomers are joined together to form larger, stronger three-dimensional polymers," explains Dobos. "How and where the monomers link together determines just how strong the resulting product is." The end result needs to be able to "hold up to daily wear and tear that are hands are exposed to," she adds.
It may sound complicated, but if you've ever used dip powder at a nail salon, then you're more familiar with all of the above than you think, because that, too, is a form of acrylic.
The difference between gel extensions and acrylic nail tips comes down to the polymerization process, ease of removal, and the extension's density, says nail artist and gel extension specialist Brittney Boyce. "Acrylics tend to be harder than gel," she says. "[The treatment] is typically done by mixing a powder (polymer) and a liquid (monomer) to create that dough-like consistency that can then be filed and molded into shapes."
Dobos adds that when compared to gel extensions, "acrylic polymer networks are denser, so they are more rigid, less flexible, and more difficult to remove." Dip powder is even harder to get off of nails, which puts the natural nail in a state where damage is likely inevitable.
Gel nail polish, on the other hand, "tends to be softer and more flexible than acrylic, and [gel extensions] tend to be not as damaging," says Boyce. The difference between gel and acrylic formulas is that gel is already mixed and needs to be cured with a UV light or LED lamp, while acrylic requires mixing as you go during the application process.
Because gel extensions are more malleable and natural-looking, they often cost more to get applied than acrylics, according to New York City-based nail artist Shirley Cheng.
"There are many variations on formulas today, but typically acrylics are longer lasting for extensions because they are stronger," says Dobos. "However, the other limiting factor is how quickly your natural nail grows out."
Cheng often suggests gel extensions to her clients due to the flexibility of the formula. "Think of a plastic cup (gel) versus a glass cup (acrylic)," she says. "While a glass cup might seem harder, if you drop the glass, it will break, while the plastic cup will be fine." But that doesn't mean gel extensions are for everyone.
A good nail technician should not only be able to customize the service to your lifestyle as needed (whether that means using acrylic or gel) but also avoid outdated nail enhancement methods, like using methyl methacrylate (MMA) as acrylic, says Cheng. "While the product is super hard and durable, it was designed to repair teeth and bones," she adds. "In order for the product to adhere to nails, the technician needs to shred the natural nail."
Speaking of shredding the natural nail, "most damage [from gel nail extensions and acrylics] comes from physical, mechanical stresses," says Dobos. It's likely not the formulas themselves that will cause damage. "Your nails are densely packed with keratin and it's hard for most chemicals to penetrate and weaken them," she explains.
All this means that the highest potential for nail damage is usually the removal process. "Rigid films that these products produce are hard for solvents like acetone to penetrate, so they need to be filed off or soaked," she says. "Your nails replenish naturally in length over time, but the thickness and integrity of the nail plate doesn't recover. Filling the top surface of the nail will cause it to weaken."
It's important to note that all extension treatments should only be performed by a professional, in a professional setting, as poor application could potentially lead to irritation. "Unreacted monomers can cause allergic reactions on the skin, so it's important to carefully apply these products and avoid getting them on the skin surrounding the nail," says Dobos.
Manicurist Naomi Gonzalez-Longstaff, who is based in New York City, agrees that a nail tech will know what is better for your nails once they assess both your lifestyle and any existing nail damage before beginning the treatment process.
"If a client has hard and brittle nails, they need a product to help their nails be flexible enough to avoid nail breakage, especially at the extension edge of the nails," says Gonzalez-Longstaff. "If a client has soft and splitting nails, they need strength, and I would use an acrylic product. If a client wants an overlay on their natural nail without an extension, the same rule applies. I look at the nail health (C-curve and nail bed) to create a custom blend."
No matter which type of nail enhancement you choose, if done correctly by an experienced technician, both acrylics and gel extensions should leave you with the same result: long, healthy, beautiful nails — especially if you use a nail strengthener and cuticle oil in between appointments. "That's the fun with gel and acrylics," says Gonzalez-Longstaff. "Both create masterpieces on 10 little palettes."
Now check out all the ways you can remove nail polish:
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